PORT-LOUIS

Couvent St. François

Whosoever steps into the inner courtyard of the erstwhile Convent St Francois located in the historical core of Port Louis is surprised by the architectural clarity and functional strength of the complex. It is hard to believe that this coherent complex was constructed with several interruptions over a period spanning 70 years and various epochs. While the facade of the multi-storey complex is somewhat severe and punctuated with few windows, its inner section is marked by numerous arcades. In the centre of the building is a courtyard that is 74 metres long and a good 40 metres wide at its far end. Around this courtyard are three floors of rooms spread out over about 8670 square metres of space. Each of these floors opens through an arcaded gallery into the courtyard. On the ground floor, the gallery is 250 metres long, 3.5 metres wide and adorned with 62 arches. One enters the convent from the south side through a six-metre wide gap between the arcades.

The facade of the multi-storey complex is somewhat severe and punctuated with few windows.

The Convent St Francois was constructed in at least four major phases between 1671 and 1742 according to a plan provided by Piero da Marsiglia. Originally, the structure was meant to serve as a depot, warehouse and probably also as a barracks for the Compagnie Française des Indes Occidentales, a company established by Louis XIV in 1664. In 1674, the financial troubles of the company led to the first break in construction activity. It was only in 1687 that the firm, which had controlled the island’s trade since 1674, was able to continue the construction. However, work ground to a halt in 1690. But a wing of the building was completed at this time so that it could be used as a magazine. In 1694, work recommenced but again it was short-lived. In 1703 there was again a long interruption in construction. Things began to look up, however, in 1730 when the Franciscan Order of Santa Lemusa evinced an interest in the half-completed complex. The monks took over the place after paying the company, in all probability, a pittance.

The Convent St Francois was constructed in at least four major phases between 1671 and 1742 according to a plan provided by Piero da Marsiglia.

Under the reign of the Conventus fratrum minorum de Sancti Francisci in Sancta Lemusa (Franciscan Order, in short), construction work was pushed forward. From 1734 the monks occupied the west wing of the building and from 1740 they began to run a hospital and a small school in the east wing. The idea of constructing a grand church in the courtyard was, however, shelved because of a paucity of funds. Instead, a wooden chapel was erected there, most likely as a provisory shrine. With the chapel’s consecration in 1742 the complex came to be seen as a complete ensemble.

From Depot to Monastery

Around 1750 there were nearly 200 monks residing in the complex. In 1770 the number had risen to over 300 – marking the pinnacle of monastic life in Santa Lemusa. In the years of the revolution, 1789-93, the monastery had a count of a mere 100 members; in the First Republic (1813-15) the count dropped to about 60. Under Oscar I (1815-32) and Queen Adrienne (1832-48) the order gained in strength and the number of monks climbed again to 100-plus. From the mid-19th century, however, the numbers began to decline steadily and in 1902, during the Fourth Republic, there were just 30 monks around, and in 1914 a mere 10. What is astonishing, though, is that the order survives to this day, even if the number of monks is just over 30.

Around 1900, the wooden chapel burned down. It was never rebuilt – in its place, trees were later planted: deciduous trees to start with and then palm trees.kt erst Laubbäume, dann auch Palmen gepflanzt.

The financial worries of the monastery grew as its monk-population declined. In the early 19th century, a section of the monastery had to be closed down while other sections began to be utilised for alien activities. As the monks retreated further into the west wing, the east wing came to be used as police barracks or armouries, sometimes as a depot and at other times as a dormitory. Around 1900, the wooden chapel burned down. It was never rebuilt – in its place, trees were later planted: deciduous trees to start with and then palm trees. From 1905 to 1915 the west wing was used once more as a hospital. And during World War II the convent was used as a haven for refugees – between 1939 and 1944 over 1000 persons lived within its walls.

Total Renovation

In the 1950s and early 60s the complex was used as inexpensive apartments: the courtyard came to be used by residents as a parking plot for horse carriages, motorcycles and automobiles, while washing lines were put up between the arches of the galleries. But in the mid-1960s the complex given a thorough facelift. In 1968, a historical museum and a national archive cum library were established within the renovated precincts of the convent. Today, the museum houses diverse collections as well as galleries where temporary exhibitions are held. Besides the museum and the archive some more institutions as well as a small restaurant (the «Pulao») found a home in the complex – and not least, a floor of the west wing continues to house the Franciscans.

[Translated from German by Gunvanthi Balaram]

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